Riding waves

The surfer carries his board underarm across the beach down to the shoreline, he stands it in the sand, holding and propping it up while scanning the sea before him. Looking for the spot to paddle out to, where the swell will reach the end of its journey, inflate, rise and break, where he can catch the wave.

He doesn't necessarily have to see the wave, but to see where he has the probablity of catching it. It is like reading a book, instead reading the ocean, each wave a page to the novel of the big blue before the culimation of the final break, the story end. Then when he has a good idea, he picks up the board, throws it in the shallow and bellies down on it to paddle out, lulling over the sweeps of the after wave as it trundles in to the shore, getting bigger the further he gets out, even to the point where he has to dive under the wave to keep getting out there to his place.

Every surfer will always wait for the big one. Waiting for the energy to mature and consolidate. That one wave they will remember above all others for the rest of their lives, one to tell their grandchildren about and how much it meant to them, how it fulfilled their life. They will rest on their boards waiting for the swell to do its work, learning how it works and trying to anticipate the expectations. He may feel the big one come, he may let it pass thinking it is not big enough. But sooner or later he has to catch one. And then another one, and another. After all a surfer is a surfer and wants to surf, there is a need to be balanced on the board and gliding, feeling the shudder and making them gasp.

The biggest wave they ever catch may seem like the perfect one for them, until they glide down the wall of something more powerful and moving, the risk of wiping out not big enough a deterent to stop you going for it, because it is worth it. It is worth dying for for.

At the end of the day you can ride it big and ride it small, it is important to have the ride. A lot like love really.

We wait patiently on our board for the love of our life to come along. But we surf the other waves as they come along. We cannot do without the waves of amour, we have to surf them. Maybe we will never surf our biggest, most perfect love, but we have to paddle out to sea on our boards, we have to allow for that experience. We cannot do anything about the timeing of love - it comes when it comes, we should let it be, but be ready when it swells. We go in to the vast ocean and we try to understand it, try to learn from one relationship to the next. And when it ends, when we wipe out, we have to pick oursleves, be brave and paddle back out there.

Go to point break and catch a tube, Ride waves. Ride love.


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